Joe Due Blades & Equipment offers Dust Shrouds and Dustless Attachments, Specialty Saws,
and diamond blades for grinding, cutting, tuckpointing and crack chasing concrete



* Banana Deals * Dust Avengers Dust Mizers Dust Cobras Vacuums Crack Chasing Saws - Random Cracks Joint Cleanout Saws - Straight Cut "The Blade" & "The Scraper" Abrasive Disks - Coating Removal Diamond Blades $500 Value Packs New Products Tech Tips & Troubleshooting
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Tech Tips & Troubleshooting

What Vacuum should I use?

Short answer: 

For a single hand tool - Something rated at over 120 CFM (or 6hp) that you can use a 2.5" shop vac style hose minimum.  A Rigid brand or big Shopvac brand vac falls in this category.  A cyclone seperator like "Dust Deputy" is a great idea for filter longevity.  pricing is $200-400 range

For 2 handtools - something 200cfm or greater with a big filter-  Little Red Ruwac is a great choice.

for Walk behind saws and grinders- semething 300cfm or greater with a 3-4"  hose inlet

Vacuum design versus Concrete Dust - Explained by Bradley Due

The 2 fundamental problems with Concrete dust:

         1.  The extremely small size of the particles.  

          2. The fact concrete dust contains silica and OSHA believes this is a significant cause of Silicosis specifically breathing in airborne particulates.

In order to remove the airborne dust we must have a vacuum (dust collector) that

           1.moves enough air CFM to keep up with the dust being created - matched to the tool being used

           2. has a motor powerful enough to pull rated CFM through a cloggin filter

           3. has a filtering mechanism that will not let the small dust particlaes (smaller than 1 micron) pass through it while being able to clean it in a self contained manner.

           4. keeps production at a maximum and down time to a minimum

Small vacs:  typical shop vacs andsmall dust collectors have standard filters rated at 5 micron.  5 Micron wont filter out the airborne silica dust (near invisible) and you will still be exposed to this dust as the vac will blow it out the exhaust.  Without a respirator, you will be breathing the dust although the jobsite will be much cleaner. So just throw on a better filter right?

The better filter you have, the smaller particulates it will catch.  The faster and worse it clogs.  In a normal shop vac a <1 micron filter will clog in 10-15 minutes before needing cleaned or replaced.  You can combat this by using a pre-seperator like a cyclone seperator (Dust Deputy is one brand) to stop the majority of dust from reaching the filter.  But the small particles will still reach it and clog it eventually.  In the smaller vac setups, you have to remove the top to replace the filter and by doing that you expose the area to the exact dust you are trying to avoid. the larger tool you use or more aggresive blade you put on will shorten the vacs useful run time in proportion.

     Now you need a stonger motor to pull air through the clogging filter, a proportional larger filter to go longer time betweening cleaning or replacing it and a way to periodically clean or beat the filter out without exposing the dust to the outside world.  With these design solutions we graduate from the $300 shop vacs to the $2000 concrete dust specific vacs for hand tools that incorporate these features in there design. Its very difficult to make a vac that has these features, built well enough to last, and be priced cost effectively in a small volume production setup.

 Now the vacs designed for this pull enough 200 CFM to keep up with 2 angle grinders creating dust in a prodcution setting.  Thier filters are huge- like 20+ sq ft of material. This lets them run for hours on end beofre the filter needs attention.  Typically the filter needs cleaned whenever the dust bin needs dumped out or your back hurts enough from grinding that you are due up for a stretch or break. 

filter cleaning: Pulse vs Shaker.  

             There is much discussion and debate on this topic.  The pulse vacs are setup to periodically use vac created air burst to "blow" the cloggin filter clean automatically.  The claim is that there is less worker downtime becsue they dont have to mess with it until the dump bin is full.  More moving pieces could be more prone to break and parts to fix but technology has come along way and quality built machines shouldnt suffer premature breakage and some contractors use and favor the pulsing style. Personally I find the pulsing noise kind of annoying.  This technology has been around a long time and was developed becasue of sub par filter materials, underpowered motors and/ or too little filter surface are as discussed, and early versions did solve the fundamental issue but were more prone to break and expensive to fix. 

        The manual shaker bar filter style vacs have flappers built to beat the filters whilst still inside the machine from a handle mounted externally.  These style vacs were and are prone to filter clogging and necessitating someone to stop, shake it, and return to work if the filters and motors are not designed optimally.  Ruwac is one brand of vac that is an awesome design and only needs to be shaken out whenever the dump bin is full.  Many older contractors do not like the idea of the manual shaker style becasue they remember how bad they were in the 20th century or are used to using sub par vacs for teh toold they are using them for and are hard pressed to consider a non pulsing vac.  with a manual setup, there are less parts within the machine, and a simpler design fundamentally.      

      Any walk behind saw or standup grinder create so much dust so fast that a more powerful vacuum is necessary to keep up.  this is where the vacuum needs exceed 300CFM and specialy big boy vacs come into play.  Depending on the job specs and circumstances vacs can range from $3,000 - $15,000 and even higher if its dust critical.  Typically the hose inlets are 3-4" on these vacs, and they need sufficient amped breakers or stand alone generators to plug into. 

I hope this has enlightened you as to the problem solving involved in Vacuum design.  This is why JDBE stopped manufacturing vac systems a few years ago and leaves vacuum design to the vacuum companies that do it every day and do it the best.  They are experts behind dust collection and fluid movement in there industry.  To try to design, manufacture and market a concrete vac in todays day and age is not necessary and counter productive.  The technology the vac manufactures have and the quality of the product they put out cannot be duplicated by small companies trying to make there own, including us.  Why try to reinvent and build a new Honda out of Chevy parts... I'd rather just buy the Honda and drive.

-Bradley Due   1/5/2012

What are the quality differences in the diamond blades?

Quality of segment:  

         There are several levels of quality in the diamond segments themselves.  Premium, standard and economy.  This has to do with the manufacturing process and the diamond content.  Joe Due stocks and sells premium (Best Quality) diamond blades we can buy.  We do this to offer the best product we can and provide consistant performance and expectations in the tools themselves.  We can and have sold the standard quaility blades per customer request.

          Many other companies will try sell you standard or economy quality blades (and may or may not tell you thats what they are) because they can sell them cheaper (we could too) or make more money on them and it is very difficult to visually see any difference in the segment itself.  Segment height does not have anything to do with quality of the segment itself, but does affect pricing.

Its always possible the lesser quality blades could be a better value at life per dollar, depending on many factors.  Also one persons "premium grade" may not be equivant to another.

Whats the difference in Cupwheel / diamond blade Bonds?

The bond consists of the material matrix that holds the impregnated diamond segments within the segment itself.  The matrix needs to wear away at the correct rate to keep the diamonds exposed and thus keep cutting, but not to fast to prematurely wear it out.  The bond of the Blade should correspond to the hardness of the concrete for best life, performance and production of the blade. 

On really hard cured concrete (river rock), use soft bonded blade.  a medium or hard bond will glaze over and stop cutting.

On soft or green concrete (seashells or sand) use a hard bonded blade for the best life.  The medium will wear out prematurely, the soft bond wont cut.  Tuckpointing blades are normally hard bond by default because mortar is a soft abrasive material.  Asphalt blades as also hard bond.

Most general purpose blades are Medium bond.  Soft and hard bond blades are less popular, more job specific, lower volume and typically cost more than teh Medium bond counterparts

Whats the difference in Grits among cupwheels?

Grits in cupwheels correlate to how big the diamonds are within the segment.  This system is very similiar to that of  polishing pads.  Grit is independant of Quality or bond. The gritted cups we carry are a medium bond.

Most Cupwheels are a "normal" 30/40 grit.  This a good performing general purpose type grit which floor coating can stick to and give average aggressive cutting.  30/40 has long been the industry standard.

More aggresive cutting wheels would be a 20 grit or 18 grit as some vendors carry.  The bigger diamonds grind faster, leave bigger scratches and are well suited for "hogging down" high spots where a smoother finish isnt warranted.

Higher grit, less aggressive and smoother finish cupwheels are available.  60/80 or 100/120 grit are available through us, other vendors may have higher numbers than that depending on size.  These cupwheels are usually used to step up on edging from 30/40 for polishing floors so as not to burn through many 50 grit resin pads to get to a 100/150 stage.

What is the best cupwheel to use to remove Thicker floor coatings?

For thicker coatings, the PCD (poly crystaline diamond) cupwheels work well for initial take off.   They have super hard teeth that chew through tough coatings.  disposable Abrasive disks (Zec and Taz) are an inexpensive option also.

You would remove 85% of the coating with those and come back over it with a diamond cupwheel to prep the concrete for a new coating as needed.  

What is the best cupwheel to use to remove thin coatings?

Typically, cupwheels with fewer segments  (12 seg turbo) and/ or oriented in a pointy fashion (arrow style) fair much better at one stepping coating removal and concrete floor prep.  The more segments or different segment style configuration may work fine, but production may be slower, even though blade life may be extended (say a 24 segment turbo)

 

I have a 4" angle grinder - can I use a 4.5" or 5" Blade or install a the 5" dust shroud kits?

For using our Dust avenger 005 and Dust mizer 005 Kits YES you can use a blade up to 5" diameter because the shroud is designed to allow enough clearance for it.

If you are using the factory metal blade guard then only the blade diameter the grinder is rated for can be used. 

An Angle grinders inch rating is based upon the amps (power) it has and RPM it turns.  5" and 6" angle grinders will run at a lower RPM so the OD blade speed remains at acceptable levels.  5" and 6" grinders typically have higher power rating to compensate for the more energy to turn a bigger blade and also for cutting deeper etc.  

Because of the stress a grinding cupwheel and deep/ wide cutting saw blades put on the grinders-  we recommend and sell the lower rpm (higher torque) and higher amp (more powerful) grinders as they perform better and longer for contrators applications. 

I have a 9" angle grinder - can I use the 7" dust shroud kits?
YES

We consider 7"-9" Grinders the same.  You can only run up to a 7" diameter blade with the dust shroud kits

For our Dust avenger 007 and Dust mizer 007 Kits YES you can use a 7" or 9" grinder

An Angle grinders inch rating is based upon the amps (power) it has and RPM it turns.  7" angle grinders will run at a higher RPM (say 8500) than 9" (say 6600) so the OD blade speed remains at acceptable levels.  9" grinders typically have higher power rating to compensate for the more energy to turn a bigger blade and also for cutting deeper etc.  when using a 7" diameter blade/ cupwheel they will have more torque to turn th smaller blade which is good. 

Because of the stress a grinding cupwheel and deep/ wide cutting saw blades put on the grinders-  we recommend and sell the lower rpm (higher torque) and higher amp (more powerful) grinders as they perform better and longer for contrators applications. 
<p>My Dust Avenger 005, 007 surface grinding dust shround wont fit/ mount/ function properly.</p>

The Dust Avenger kits have aluminum collars that adapt to each make and model specifically. The Blade nut and arbor adaptor are setup to give the correct offest to use diamond tooling or abrasive disks.  Here are some common issues.

1.  The aluminum collar is the wrong one for your make and model grinder.  The collar  should fit snugly around the bearing housing where the metal blade guard normally resides.  This becomes more of any issue when grnider manufactures update models and make design changes we havent caught up with.  If the make/ model of your grinder isnt listed on the web, odds are we do not have one for your setup.  we have to choose the most popular makes and cannot make one-off collars.

2. You are using threaded (5/8-11) tooling in which teh threaded nut height is too short allowing the blade to be sucked into the shroud too far.  In this case, you should use some 5/8" ID washers to space out the blade whilst allowing you adequate threads to safely use the machine.  Or use a open arbor (7/8") blade and use teh arbor adaptors provided in the kit to gain the correct offset.  We are creating different height arbor adaptors now to compensate for the great variance in tooling height that has come about recently.  You may also machine down the bottom of the collar to effectaive raise the shroud height, at your own discretion of course.

3. The setup we sell you isnt correct.  it happens, we are not perfect.  things change.  if you get it and cant make it work, return it for credit.